Sewing Instructions – Model 2 Wrap Skirt (Supplement 338)

Supplement No. 338 – Model 2: Wrap Skirt. The long wrap skirt of the red outfit, with waist darts, a hip yoke pocket on the left, continuous facings along the front edges and hem, and a straight waistband closed with snaps. Draft the pattern with the Lutterloh System from your waist and hip measurements, then add seam allowances before cutting.

Back to Supplement No. 338

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What you need

Item Amount
Fabric for the skirt (D) 165 x 120 cm – 1⅞ yd of 44/45″ wide fabric
Snap fasteners 6
Lightweight fusible interfacing for the front wrap facings, hem facings and waistband
Stay tape (optional) for the pocket opening
Thread 1–2 spools, matching

Amounts are length x width. Choose a fluid woven fabric of about 110–150 g/m² (3.2–4.4 oz/yd²): rayon/viscose, Tencel, modal, or a lightweight linen or silk. Pre-wash and press the fabric before cutting.

Seam allowances and preparation

Add 1.5 cm (⅝″) seam allowance on all seams and edges.

  1. Transfer all seam markings.
  2. Thread-baste the marked center fronts (CF) on both front skirt pieces and the placement line on the hip yoke.
  3. Fuse the interfacing (see the tip on interfacing below before you cut).

Sewing steps

Sew right sides together with 1.5 cm seams unless noted. Press every seam before crossing it with another.

  1. Waist darts. Sew the waist darts and press them toward the center back.
  2. Hip yoke pocket (left).
    1. Stabilize the pocket opening from the wrong side with interfacing or stay tape. Place the pocket lining (ST) right sides together on the front skirt opening and sew. Trim the seam allowances, turn the lining and allowances to the inside, press the edge flat and understitch closely.
    2. Place the front skirt with the pocket lining onto the hip yoke (AK), aligning it with the marked placement line. Baste at the upper skirt edge and the side seam.
    3. On the wrong side of the skirt, lay the pocket bags smoothly right sides together, pin and sew all around with an overlock or zigzag stitch. Press.
  3. Side seams. Sew the front skirt pieces to the back skirt at the side seams, catching the pocket in the seam. Remove the basting thread. Serge the seam allowances and press open.
  4. Facings. Sew the front facings and hem facings to the back hem facing, right sides together, and press the seams open. Finish the inner edge of the facing. Place this continuous facing right sides together onto the front skirt edges, the front hem and the back hem; pin and sew. Grade the seam allowances (skirt 5 mm / 3⁄16″, facing 3 mm / ⅛″). Understitch the facing close to the seam line through the allowances. Turn the facings to the inside and press the edges thoroughly.
  5. Waistband. Fold the interfaced waistband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press the center crease. Fold 1.5 cm (⅝″) of the inner waistband edge to the inside and press. Pin the waistband right sides together onto the skirt and sew. Unfold the waistband, fold the short ends right sides together and sew. Trim the corners diagonally, turn right side out, push the corners out neatly and press. Lay the pressed inner waistband edge 1–2 mm (1⁄16″) over the seam line and pin or baste from the outside. Then stitch in the ditch from the outside to secure the inner waistband, or hand-stitch it carefully onto the seam.
  6. Snaps. At the marked positions (3 small circles on each side), attach the snaps so that both the inner and the outer skirt sections fasten securely. Remove all pattern markings.

Alternative: buttons instead of snaps

Instead of snaps, sew on one flat inner button and two color-matching outer buttons, and work the matching buttonholes in the waistband. To find the perfect button positions, line up the marked center fronts (CF) exactly.

Tips

  • Interfacing: Pattern pieces, especially bias-cut facings, can distort or shrink under the heat and steam of fusing. Rough-cut all pieces that get full interfacing with a generous margin first. After fusing and letting the fabric cool, place the pattern piece on top again and cut it to its exact shape with the required seam allowances.