Sewing Instructions – Model 1 Wrap Dress (Supplement 338)
Supplement No. 338 – Model 1: Sporty Elegant Wrap Dress. A knee-length wrap dress with a deep V-neckline, short flared sleeves, bust and back waist darts and a wide sash-style tie belt. Draft the pattern with the Lutterloh System from your bust and hip measurements, then add seam allowances before cutting.
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What you need
| Item | Amount |
|---|---|
| Fabric for the dress (VV) | 250 x 120 cm – 2¾ yd of 44/45″ wide fabric |
| Snap fasteners | 2 |
| Fusible interfacing | for the facings |
| Thread | 1–2 spools, matching |
Amounts are length x width. Choose a mid-weight or lightweight woven fabric: rayon/viscose (crepe or twill), Tencel, cotton poplin or chambray, or a lightweight linen. Pre-wash and press the fabric before cutting.
Seam allowances and preparation
Add 1.5 cm (⅝″) seam allowance on all seams and 4 cm (1½″) at the dress hem and the sleeve hems.
- Fuse the interfacing to the facings.
- Mark all seam lines and notches, including the front sleeve marking and the shoulder notch on the sleeve cap.
Sewing steps
Sew right sides together with 1.5 cm seams unless noted. Press every seam before crossing it with another.
- Bust darts. Sew the bust darts and press them downward.
- Back waist darts. Sew the back waist darts and press them toward the center.
- Shoulder seams. Sew the shoulder seams, finish the seam allowances and press open.
- Side seams. Sew the side seams, finish the seam allowances and press open. If you use the tie bands sewn to the front (see below), leave an opening in the right side seam for the inner tie.
- Prepare the hem. Finish the hem edge and press up 4 cm (1½″), then unfold the hem downward again.
- Facings. Sew the facing shoulder seams and finish the outer edge. Pin the facing to the neckline and front edges and sew all around.
- Trim and understitch. Trim the seam allowances in half, clip into the curves and understitch the facing close to the seam line.
- Turn the facings. Turn the facings to the inside while folding the hem back up.
- Press. Carefully press the neckline and the hem edges.
- Tack and hem. Tack the back neckline facing to the shoulder seams. Sew the hem invisibly by hand with a blind stitch, so it doesn't show on the outside.
- Sleeves. Sew the sleeve seams. Work two parallel rows of basting stitches within the seam allowance of the sleeve cap to ease it gently. Insert the sleeves, matching the front sleeve marking and pinning the shoulder notch exactly to the shoulder seam, then sew. Finish the seam allowances together and press carefully toward the sleeve.
- Sleeve hems. Finish the hem edges, press up 4 cm (1½″) and sew in the same way as the dress hem.
- Snaps. Sew snap fasteners to the front edges near the neckline corners, and the matching parts at the corresponding positions at the waist, to secure the wrap closure.
- Tie belt. Fold the long belt piece (N) in half lengthwise, right sides together. Sew along all edges, leaving an opening of about 10 cm (4″) on the long side for turning. Trim the seam allowances in half and clip the corners diagonally. Turn right side out, press and topstitch all around at presser-foot width, closing the opening in the process.
Alternative: tie bands sewn to the front
If the sash-style belt feels too bulky or you want to save fabric, sew slightly narrower tie bands directly to both front pieces instead:
| Band | Size (finished) |
|---|---|
| Right band | 70 x 4 cm (28″ x 1½″) |
| Left band | 100 x 4 cm (40″ x 1½″) |
Leave an opening equal to the band's width in the right side seam for the inner tie.
Tips
- Important: When using the loose tie belt, the snap fasteners on the front pieces are a must. The wide tie belt alone will not hold the wrap securely in place.
- Try the dress on before sewing the snaps to find the exact positions at the neckline corners and the waist.
- On slippery rayon or Tencel, use a fine needle (70/10) and a little spray starch before cutting.