Sewing Instructions – Model 2 Wrap Blouse (Supplement 338)
Supplement No. 338 – Model 2: Breezy Wrap Blouse. The wrap blouse of the red outfit, with a stand-up collar, bias-bound edges that continue into tie bands, bust and waist darts, and gathered sleeves with split cuffs. Draft the pattern with the Lutterloh System from your bust and hip measurements, then add seam allowances before cutting.
Back to Supplement No. 338 · Model 2 skirt instructions
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What you need
| Item | Amount |
|---|---|
| Fabric for the blouse (NN) | 160 x 120 cm – 1¾ yd of 44/45″ wide fabric |
| Bias strips (S+N) | 600 x 5 cm in total (6⅖ yd x 2″), cut on the bias – for two binding tapes of about 3 m x 3 cm (3.3 yd x 1¼″) finished width |
| Fusible interfacing | for the under collar and the cuffs |
| Thread | 1–2 spools, matching |
Amounts are length x width. Choose a lightweight dress fabric: rayon/viscose, lyocell (Tencel), crêpe de chine or silk crepe. Pre-wash and press the fabric before cutting.
Seam allowances and preparation
Add 1.5 cm (⅝″) seam allowance on all seams and edges. At the neckline and the blouse hem they will be trimmed back later, before the bias tape is applied.
- Fuse the interfacing to the under collar and the cuffs.
- Mark all seam lines and clip the notches. Mark point B on both front edges.
Sewing steps
Sew right sides together with 1.5 cm seams unless noted. Press every seam before crossing it with another.
- Bust darts. Sew the bust darts and press them downward.
- Waist darts. Sew the waist darts and press them toward the center.
- Shoulder seams. Sew the shoulder seams, finish the seam allowances and press them toward the back.
- Side seams. Sew the side seams, leaving a 3.5 cm (1⅜″) opening at the waist for the inner tie band. Finish the seam allowances and press open.
- Collar. Pin the upper and under collar right sides together and sew along the short ends and the top edge. For crisp corners, see the tip below.
- Turn the collar. Trim the collar seam allowances in half. Carefully press the seams open, turn the collar right side out and press the edges flat.
- Attach the collar. Pin and sew the collar into the back neckline so that the seam allowances lie on the outside (right side) of the blouse – they will be covered by the bias tape.
- Trim the edges. Trim away the seam allowances completely at the hem, the front edges and the front neckline. Shorten the back neckline seam allowances to 1–1.2 cm (⅜″).
- First bias tape (fronts and hem). Fold one short end of the first bias tape under by about 1 cm (⅜″). Start at marking B and bind the left front edge, the entire hem and up the right front edge to marking B. Fold the other end of the tape under and sew all around.
- Second bias tape (neckline and ties). Mark the center of the second bias tape and pin it to the center back of the collar seam. Continue binding this seam and the front neckline edges down to marking B. The ends extending beyond marking B become the tie bands: fold the short ends under and sew the long edges of the tape together.
- Sleeves. Sew and insert the sleeves the same way as for Model 1: sew the sleeve seams, ease the sleeve cap with two rows of basting, match the front sleeve marking and the shoulder notch, sew, finish the allowances together and press toward the sleeve. (See Model 1.)
- Split cuffs. Interface half of the cuff piece. Fold the cuff right sides together and sew the short ends, stopping exactly at the seam line. Clip the seam allowances close to the last stitch, then turn the cuff right side out. Bring the open seam allowances together and sew to close the cuff into a complete ring.
- Attach the cuffs. Gather the lower edge of the sleeve with two rows of basting stitches to fit the cuff. Pin it to the cuff so that the cuff split points toward the top of the forearm or slightly toward the back. Sew, finish the seam allowances together and press toward the sleeve.
Alternative: elastic cuffs
Instead of the split cuff, you can sew an elastic cuff. It keeps the sleeve securely in place at your wrist.
Tips
- Sharp collar corners: Don't pivot exactly at the point. Instead, sew 1 to 2 stitches straight across the corner point.
- Cut the bias strips at a true 45° angle and join them with diagonal seams so the binding lies flat around the curves.