Pattern Drafting Systems Compared: Lutterloh vs. Commercial Patterns vs. Software
Jaa
If you want clothes that actually fit, you have three routes: buy commercial patterns and alter them, learn flat pattern drafting (on paper or in software), or use a scaled drafting system. Here's an honest comparison — including where each option genuinely wins.
The three approaches at a glance
| Commercial patterns | Drafting from scratch / software | Lutterloh System® | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fit | Standard sizes; alterations usually needed | Excellent — if drafted correctly | Drafted from your bust + hip; fit is built in |
| Learning curve | Low | High (months of practice or software training) | Low — first pattern in ~30 minutes |
| Time per pattern | Fast to start, slow to fit (muslins) | Slow | ~30 minutes, no muslin marathon |
| Cost over time | $15–25 per pattern | Software $100–800 + time | One set, 280 patterns (~64¢ each), supplements optional |
| Design variety | Huge | Unlimited (you design) | 280 included + 40 new per quarterly supplement |
| Plus sizes | Limited, often poorly graded | Good, if skilled | XL/XXL edition drafts sizes 50–72+ natively |
When commercial patterns are the right choice
If you sew occasionally, love a specific indie designer's style, and happen to match standard sizing reasonably well — commercial patterns are convenient. The catalog variety is unbeatable. The hidden cost is fitting: most sewers alter every pattern, and alterations compound.
When drafting from scratch or software makes sense
Professional patternmakers and ambitious hobbyists who want to design original garments need full drafting skills or CAD software. It's the most flexible route — and the most demanding. Expect a real learning investment before your first well-fitting garment.
Where a scaled system fits in
The Lutterloh System® sits between the two: professionally designed patterns (so you don't design from zero) that draft to your measurements (so you don't alter). Two measurements — bust and hip — scale each miniature pattern to full size with the included tape measure. The method — the "Golden Rule" — has been in continuous print since 1935.
It's not for everyone: if you want to design entirely original silhouettes, learn full drafting. If you need this season's indie-designer look exactly, buy that pattern. But if your goal is well-fitting everyday garments without fitting battles, a scaled system is the shortest path — see what long-time users say.
Try it in 30 minutes
Our free step-by-step tutorial shows the complete drafting process. The complete set includes 280 patterns, the special tape measure, French curve and manual — with a 90-day guarantee.