Sewing Instructions – Model 3 Peplum Blouse (Supplement 338)
Supplement No. 338 – Model 3. A peplum blouse with a drawstring waist, back slit, collar with loop and ball button, and long sleeves. Draft the pattern with the Lutterloh System from your bust and hip measurements, then add seam allowances before cutting.
Back to Supplement No. 338 · Download the sewing instructions as PDF
What you need
| Item | Amount |
|---|---|
| Fabric for the blouse (NN) | 150 x 150 cm – 1⅝ yd of 58/60″ wide fabric |
| Lightweight cord or drawstring | 1 |
| Eyelets | 2 (or 2 buttonholes) |
| Ball button | 1 |
| Interfacing | strips for neckline, front shoulder seam, armholes and collar |
| Thread | 1 spool, matching |
Fabric recommendation: lightweight blouse fabrics such as viscose/rayon or polyester (twill, satin, poplin, crepe). Pre-wash and press the fabric before cutting. Seam allowances: 1.5 cm on all seams and sleeve hems, 1.0 cm on the casing and neckline, 2 cm on the hem.
Sewing steps
Sew right sides together with 1.5 cm seams unless noted. Finish each seam allowance right after sewing, and press every seam before crossing it with another.
- Back seam and slit. Stitch the center back seam up to the slit (slit approx. 6–10 cm). Baste the slit closed with a long stitch (this thread is removed later). Finish the seam allowances and press them open.
- Front side panels. Stitch the front side panels (AC) to the front panel (A). Finish the seam allowances together and press them toward the center front.
- Back side panels. Stitch the back side panels (BC) to the back panels (B). Finish the seam allowances together and press them toward the center back.
- Shoulder seams. Stitch the shoulder seams, finish the seam allowances and press them open.
- Collar (neckline placket). Stitch the interfaced collar pieces together along the long edge. Press the seam allowances flat open first, then turn the pieces wrong sides together and press the upper edge crisp. Fold the seam allowance of the inner placket 1 cm to the inside along the long edge.
- Prepare the loop. Cut a bias strip 3 x 6 cm from scrap fabric. Fold it right sides together along the crease and stitch the long edges about 4 mm from the fold. Trim the seam allowance to 2 mm and carefully turn the loop right side out.
- Remove the basting. Remove the loose basting thread from the center of the slit.
- Attach the collar. Stitch the collar to the neckline with the unpressed edge right sides together.
- Place the loop. Place the loop between the inner and outer collar, depending on your button size. The loop ends lie on top of each other and point toward the seam allowance. The loop starts inside and pops out when turned.
- Close the collar ends. Fold the short collar ends right sides together and stitch, securing the loop on the right side. Trim the seam allowances, cut the corners diagonally, turn right side out and press.
- Finish the inner collar. Place the inner collar just over the attachment seam and sew it down by hand. Sew the ball button onto the left collar placket to match the loop.
- Sleeves. Lay the front and back flat, place the sleeves flat into the armholes, pin them matching the sleeve notches and stitch. Finish the seam allowances together and press them into the sleeve.
- Side and sleeve seams. Place the blouse front and back right sides together. Fold the sleeves right sides together and pin the underarms precisely. Sew the sleeve seams and side seams in one continuous stitch. Finish together and press toward the back.
- Waist casing. Install two eyelets 1.5 cm to the right and left of the center front, or sew two buttonholes. Press the long edges of the casing to the inside and close it into a ring. Place the ring so its bottom edge sits at the waistline, then stitch it all the way around close to the top and bottom edges.
- Drawstring. Thread the cord or tie through the buttonholes or eyelets.
- Hem. Fold the hem and sleeve hems twice and stitch them in place.
Tips
- Alternative method: sew buttonholes instead of eyelets, and make a narrow tie from the same fabric instead of a cord. A narrow elastic can also be threaded through the buttonholes to shape the waist.
- Pro tip: mark the waistline on all pieces with loose thread so it is visible from the outside. Measure the waistline and the casing strip precisely before stitching the casing down. Remove the markings afterward.