Sewing Instructions – Models 79 & 80 Knit Pants (Supplement 335)
Supplement No. 335 – Models 79 & 80 "Knit Pants" (Z) ★★ Pull-on knit pants with a wide, high waistband (yoke) and pockets set into the waistband seam at the back. Model 79 is the short version of Model 80 – use the separate hemline for Model 79 on the pattern. The length can be varied freely between the two. Draft the pattern with the Lutterloh System from your hip and waist measurements, then add seam allowances before cutting.
What you need
| Item | Amount |
|---|---|
| Fabric for the pants (Z), Model 79 (short) | 85 x 150 cm – 1 yd of 58/60″ wide fabric |
| Fabric for the pants (Z), Model 80 (long) | 120 x 150 cm – 1⅜ yd of 58/60″ wide fabric |
| Stretch interfacing | for all 4 waistband pieces, half of each pocket bag, and narrow strips for the pocket opening allowances |
| Thread | 1 spool, matching |
Fabric recommendation: knit fabrics with crosswise stretch, at least 4–8% spandex and a weight of about 290 g/m² (8.5 oz/sq yd) or heavier, such as Ponte di Roma / Ponte knit, techno stretch, Bengaline, stretch crepe, performance knit, lightweight summer softshell or sturdy knit jacquard. Seam allowances: 1.5 cm (5/8″) on all seams, including the pocket bags; 3 cm (1¼″) at the hem. Before sewing, fuse the interfacing, mark the pocket openings and the fold line on the pocket bags, and finish the crotch seam allowances.
Sewing steps
The wide waistband of these pants is also called a yoke; below it is simply called the "waistband". Sew right sides together with 1.5 cm seams unless noted, and press every seam before crossing it with another.
- Attach the pocket bags. Lay the back pants piece flat, right side up. Pin the un-interfaced half of the pocket bag right sides together onto the seam allowance between the pocket opening markings. Stitch the pocket bag in place between the markings and press the seam allowances upward.
- Close the inseams. Pin the pocket bags to the pants so they stay out of the way while you sew the leg seams. Place the front pants piece right sides together onto the back pants piece. Pin and stitch the inseams, finish the seam allowances together and press them in opposite directions (see Tips).
- Close the side seams. Pin and stitch the side seams. Finish the seam allowances together and press them toward the back, using a sleeve board.
- Close the crotch seam. Turn one pants leg right side out and leave the other wrong side out. Slide the right-side-out leg inside the wrong-side-out leg so the inseams line up. Make sure the inseam allowances face in opposite directions to avoid bulk at the intersection, and align the front and back crotch seams. Pin the seam allowances together, then stitch the crotch seam from the top edge of the front all the way to the top edge of the back. Press the seam allowances open down to the curve.
- Prepare the waistband. All waistband pieces are reinforced with stretch interfacing. Cut the 4 waistband pieces roughly first, slightly larger, because they can shrink when the interfacing is fused. Once the interfacing has cooled, lay the front and back waistband pattern pieces back on top and cut them out precisely with seam allowances (see Tips). Stitch the side seams of both waistbands and press the seam allowances open.
- Pin the outer waistband. Mark the center front and center back of the waistband with a notch. Lay the pants flat with the back facing up. Slide the outer waistband ring right sides together over the pants. Match the waistband side seams to the pants side seams, the center back notch to the back crotch seam and the center front notch to the front crotch seam. Make sure you pin the correct edge: the narrower edge becomes the top of the pants, the wider edge is sewn to the pants. The pocket bag now lies between the pants and the outer waistband. Pin the waistband evenly all the way around.
- Stitch the outer waistband. Sew the waistband all the way around, stopping exactly at the first pocket opening. Backstitch and cut the thread. Skip the pocket opening and start again right after it, backstitching at the beginning and end. Do the same at the second pocket opening, then stitch the rest of the seam. Press the seam allowances up into the waistband.
- Finish the pockets. Turn the pants wrong side out. Fold each pocket bag upward along the fold line, pin and stitch the side edges of the pocket bag together, then finish these seam allowances. The upper pocket opening allowance sits above the waistband seam inside the waistband and is caught when the inner waistband is secured (step 10).
- Sew the inner waistband. Pin the inner waistband (facing) right sides together onto the outer waistband, matching the side seams; the narrower edges of both waistbands meet here. Stitch, trim the seam allowances by half and grade them at the seam intersections. Flip the inner waistband upward and understitch it from the right side close to the seam, catching the seam allowances. Finish the lower edge of the inner waistband. Turn the inner waistband to the inside – thanks to the understitching it will almost fold in by itself. Roll the top edge between your fingers so the seam sits exactly on the fold or slightly to the inside, baste with long stitches and press. Remove the basting after pressing.
- Secure the inner waistband. Pin the outer and inner waistband flat together. Turn the pants right side out and stitch from the outside exactly in the ditch of the waistband seam; this catches the inner waistband. An elastic machine stitch is best for this almost invisible seam. If your machine has no preset elastic stitches, use a short straight stitch, stitch length 1.5 to max. 2 mm, so the waistband stays stretchy. A zigzag stitch is not recommended.
- Hem. Finish the hem edges, fold 3 cm (1¼″) to the inside and topstitch from the right side with a zigzag stitch or a twin needle.
Tips
- Shorts or long pants: Model 79 is the short version of Model 80. Use the separate hemline for Model 79, or choose any length in between.
- Pro tip 1: to avoid bulky seam intersections in the crotch, press the inseam allowances in opposite directions (step 2).
- Pro tip 2: pieces that get fused interfacing can shrink. Cut them roughly first, fuse the interfacing, then cut them out precisely (step 5).