Sewing Instructions – Model 84 Dress (Supplement 341)
Supplement No. 341 – Model 84. A flowing sleeveless halter dress with a gathered neckline, a softly bloused bodice, a wide draped waistband at the dropped waist and a full, swinging midi skirt. Draft the pattern with the Lutterloh System from your bust and hip measurements, then add seam allowances before cutting.
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What you need
| Item | Amount |
|---|---|
| Fabric for the dress | 240 x 150 cm – 2⅝ yd of 58/60″ wide fabric |
| Invisible zipper (woven fabrics only) | 1, about 35 cm (14″) |
| Fusible interfacing, light | a small piece for the neckband |
| Hook and eye or 1 small button | for the halter closure at the back of the neck |
| Thread | 1–2 spools, matching |
Amounts are length x width. Choose a soft, fluid fabric so the gathers and the skirt fall nicely: viscose jersey, viscose crepe, rayon challis, crepe de chine or a light satin. Pre-wash and press the fabric before cutting.
Pattern pieces and cutting
Add 1.5 cm (⅝″) seam allowance on all seams and 3 cm (1¼″) at the hem, unless your drafted pattern already includes them.
| Piece | Cut | Interfacing |
|---|---|---|
| Front bodice | 1 on the fold | – |
| Back bodice | 1 on the fold | – |
| Waistband | 2 (front and back) | – |
| Skirt front and back | 1 each on the fold | – |
| Neckband / halter strap | 1 strip, 6 cm wide (finished 2.5 cm) | Half the width |
| Bias binding for armholes and back edge | strips 3 cm wide, on the bias | – |
- Fold the fabric selvage to selvage, right sides together.
- Place the bodice and skirt pieces on the fold and on the straight grain. On knits, make sure the greatest stretch runs around the body.
- Transfer all marks: center front, gathering range at the neckline, notches at the side seams and the waistband pleat marks.
- Fuse interfacing to half the width of the neckband (not on knits that need to stretch).
Sewing steps
Sew right sides together with 1.5 cm seams unless noted. On knits, use a stretch or narrow zigzag stitch or a serger. Finish each seam allowance right after sewing and press every seam before crossing it with another.
- Side seams of the bodice. Sew front to back bodice at the side seams. On woven fabric, leave the left side open from the lower edge for the zipper. Finish and press.
- Armholes and back edge. Bind the armholes and the upper back edge with the bias strips: sew the strip to the right side, fold it over the raw edge to the inside and stitch in the ditch, or turn it fully to the inside and topstitch.
- Gather the neckline. Sew two rows of long gathering stitches along the upper front edge between the marks. Pull the threads until the front fits the center part of the neckband, and spread the gathers evenly.
- Neckband and halter. Pin the neckband to the gathered front, right sides together, with the band extending equally on both sides for the halter strap. Sew, fold the band over to the inside, press under the seam allowance and close the band along its whole length, including the strap parts, by stitching close to the edge. Finish the strap ends and sew a hook and eye or a small button and loop at the back of the neck.
- Waistband. Sew the front and back waistband pieces together at the right side seam (left side stays open on wovens). For the draped look, fold or pleat the band at the marks so it gathers softly, and baste the folds at both long edges.
- Bodice to waistband. Gather the lower edge of the bodice slightly so it blouses over the band, as in the drawing. Pin it to the upper edge of the waistband, matching side seams and center front, and sew. Press the seam toward the band.
- Skirt. Sew the skirt side seams, leaving the upper left side open on wovens. Gather the upper edge of the skirt with two rows of long stitches and pull it in to fit the waistband.
- Skirt to waistband. Pin the skirt to the lower edge of the waistband, matching side seams and center, and sew. Finish the seam and press it toward the band.
- Zipper (woven fabrics). Insert the invisible zipper in the left side opening so it runs through the waistband, then close the rest of the side seam below it.
- Hem. Let the dress hang for a day so the bias areas of the skirt can drop, then even out the hem. Turn under 1 cm and 2 cm and stitch, or use a narrow rolled hem on light fabrics.
- Finish. Remove the gathering threads and all marks and give the dress a final, gentle press.
Tips
- In a stretchy viscose jersey you can skip the zipper and slip the dress on over the head; check first that the waistband passes over your shoulders.
- Try the dress on before sewing the neckband closed to adjust the halter length.
- On slippery fabrics, use a fine needle (70/10) and spray starch before cutting.
- The shorter version, Model 83, uses the same bodice idea with a fitted mini skirt.