Sewing Instructions – Model 32 Shirt

Model 32 – Shirt ★ A casual short-sleeve jersey shirt with a round neck and a separate neckband, sewn with the sleeves set in flat. The same base pattern also makes 8 additional models. Please scroll down to find the model number of your pattern for additional instructions. Draft the pattern with the Lutterloh System from your bust and hip measurements, then add seam allowances before cutting.

What you need

Item	Amount
Fabric for the shirt, Model 32	100 x 150 cm – 1⅛ yd of 58/60″ wide fabric
Needles	jersey / ballpoint needles; super-stretch or Microtex needles for polyester jersey (e.g. Schmetz or Organ Needles)
Walking foot	optional, if available
Thread	1 spool, matching

Fabric recommendation: light to medium-weight jersey with spandex.

• Cotton jersey with spandex (5.3–6.2 oz/yd²)
• Rayon jersey with spandex (5.9–6.5 oz/yd²)
• Performance jersey, polyester/spandex blend (4.4–5.3 oz/yd²)

Fabric suggestion: "Aqua Blue Solid Stretch Cotton Spandex Jersey Knit Fabric" from girlcharlie.com.

Seam allowances: ⅝″ (1.5 cm) on the seams, 1¼″ (3 cm) at the hem and sleeve hems.

Preparations: Mark the center front and center back at the neckline with a small clip.

Pattern pieces: A = front (cut 1 on the fold), B = back (cut 1 on the fold), E = sleeve (cut 2). The neckband has no pattern piece: calculate it as in step 2.

Sewing steps

1. Shoulder seams. Place the front (A) right sides together with the back (B) and pin the shoulder seams (see the tip on stabilizing them). Stitch, finish the seam allowances together and press them toward the back.
2. Calculate and cut the neckband. The neckband must be shorter than the neckline. Measure the neckline on the shirt and multiply it by the factor for your fabric: cotton jersey 0.85, rayon jersey 0.80, performance jersey 0.75. Example: 21⅝″ (55 cm) × 0.85 = 18⅜″ (46.75 cm), rounded to 18½″ (47 cm), + 1¼″ (2 × ⅝″ seam allowance) = 19¾″ (50 cm) total length. ● A cutting width of 2″ (5 cm) gives a finished, visible neckband of ⅝″ (1.5 cm); the seam allowances are already included. ● Cut the strip across the grain (from selvage to selvage), so the greatest stretch runs along the band. You can draw the measurements directly onto the fabric. If the fabric is folded, cut half the length, starting at the fold.
3. Prepare the neckband. Stitch the short ends together to form a loop, trim the seam allowances and press them open. Fold the band in half wrong sides together and press. To quarter it, fold the loop in half and mark the seam and the opposite fold with pins; bring those two pins together and mark the new outer folds as well.
4. Prepare the neckline. If you cut it with a ⅝″ allowance, trim the neckline allowance to ⅜″ (1 cm); the neckband allowance is also ⅜″. Quarter the neckline the same way, starting from the clips at center front and center back. The side marks usually sit slightly forward of the shoulder seams, not on them.
5. Attach the neckband. Slide the band right sides together over the neckline, all raw edges pointing up. Match the pins, with the band seam at center back or at a shoulder seam. The shirt will gape slightly between the pins because the band is shorter. As you sew, stretch only the band, never the shirt. Use a narrow elastic zigzag: width 1.0 mm (approx. 1/16″), length 2.0 mm (12–13 stitches per inch). Check for puckers, unpick and resew any, then finish the seam allowances together and press them toward the shirt.
6. Topstitch the neckband. From the right side, topstitch on the shirt 1/16″–⅛″ (2–3 mm) from the seam. An edge-stitching foot (blind hem foot) with its guide in the seam keeps the row exactly parallel. Press the neckline flat to remove any waves.
7. Sleeves. Unlike a blouse or jacket, a shirt's sleeves are sewn in flat, before the sleeve and side seams are closed. Lay the shirt flat, right side up. Pin the sleeve right sides together to the armhole: the center sleeve mark to the shoulder seam first, then the front half to the "F" (front) notch, then the back half. Stitch, trim the seam allowance to ⅜″ (1 cm), finish together and press toward the sleeve.
8. Side and sleeve seams. Fold the shirt right sides together. Pin each side seam and continue straight into the sleeve seam, matching the hem marks, the waist notches and the underarm seams. Stitch, finish together and press toward the back.
9. Hem and sleeve hems. Finish the edges, fold them to the inside and topstitch from the right side with a wider zigzag, a twin needle or, for fully professional results, a coverstitch machine (for example Brother, Juki or Janome). Press all hems flat.

Tips

• Stable shoulders. Sew a strip cut from the shirt fabric (a selvage strip works well) into the shoulder seams so they don't stretch out in wear and washing.
• Neckband width. The wider the visible neckband, the more athletic the shirt looks; ⅝″ (1.5 cm) is standard. For any finished width, cut the band twice that width plus two seam allowances.
• Alternative: ready-made cuffs. For a sporty look, finish the sleeve hems and the shirt hem with ready-made cuffs or rib knit sold by the yard.

Pattern variations (same base)

These models use the same base pattern. Sew them like Model 32, with the changes below. The text between the two ● marks in step 2 is the part some models replace.

Model	Differences	Changed steps
78 ★	Straight side seams without waist shaping (cut by bust measurement only); wider neckband	Step 2 – between the ● marks: a cutting width of 2¾″ (7 cm) gives a finished, visible neckband of 1″ (2.5 cm); the seam allowances are already included. To keep the wide band from sagging, cut it slightly shorter or fuse a very stretchy knit interfacing such as Pellon Fusi-Knit (US) or Vlieseline H 609 (Germany).
85 ★	Straight side seams without waist shaping (cut by bust measurement only); separate neckband pattern piece (A+B S)	Pattern pieces: add neckband strip (A+B S). Step 2 – neckband: the piece is 1½″ (4 cm) wide; add ⅜″ (1 cm) to both long edges for a cutting width of 2⅜″ (6 cm) and a finished band of ¾″ (2 cm). The length on the pattern sheet is a rough guide only: work out the length with the factors in step 2.
123 + 124 ★	Separate neckband pattern piece (S)	Pattern pieces: add neckband strip (S). Step 2 – neckband: the piece is 1¼″ (3 cm) wide; add ⅜″ (1 cm) to both long edges for a cutting width of 2″ (5 cm) and a finished band of ⅝″ (1.5 cm). Work out the length with the factors in step 2.
163 ★	Dress; wider neckband	Step 2 – between the ● marks: a cutting width of 2⅜″ (6 cm) gives a finished, visible neckband of ¾″ (2 cm); the seam allowances are already included. Step 9 – sleeve hems: finish the hem edges, fold them 1¼″ (3 cm) to the inside, press and topstitch from the right side.
164 ★★	Dress with plissé skirt; wider neckband	Fabric: add pre-pleated fabric (polyester jersey plissé or chiffon plissé). Pattern pieces: add front pleated skirt panel (A HH GG) and back pleated skirt panel (B HH GG). Step 2 and step 9: as Model 163. Step 10 – pleated skirt: measure the finished hem of the dress front and back. Cut each pleated panel to exactly that length plus ⅜″ (1 cm) at each side seam; for a clean transition, cut ⅜″ past the bottom of a pleat fold. Sew the side seams, finish together and press toward the back. Slide the skirt right sides together over the dress and stitch. Finish together and press toward the dress. If you like, topstitch the seam allowances from the right side, one presser-foot width from the seam.
237 ★	Separate neckband pattern piece (A+B S)	Pattern pieces: add neckband (A+B S). Step 2 – neckband: as Models 123 + 124: the piece is 1¼″ (3 cm) wide, plus ⅜″ on both long edges = 2″ (5 cm) cutting width, ⅝″ (1.5 cm) finished. Work out the length with the factors and example in step 2.
276 ★	Invisible neckband; sleeve cuffs	Pattern pieces: add sleeve cuffs (EF). Steps 5 + 6 – invisible neckband: attach the band as in step 5. Then fold it completely to the inside so it covers the seam allowances. Pin or baste, press the neckline edge, and topstitch flat from the right side with an elastic decorative stitch, a zigzag, a twin needle or a coverstitch. Step 9 – hem: hem the shirt only, as in step 9. Step 10 – sleeve cuffs: cut ready-made cuffs or doubled rib knit to wrist width and sew the short ends into a ring. Sew the cuff to the lower sleeve edge, finish together and press toward the sleeve.